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Touristic route: the old center of Capafonts.
Itinerary: Era del Rector, in front of the Tourist Office – Carrer Nou (new street) – Plaça de l’Església (parish church square) – Carrer de les Fonts (Bakery – Casa de la Vila – Porxo square – first threshing floor, with an explanation of the threshing process – view of la Ninota – view of the Picoarandan) – Ponte street (views – second threshing floor – sundial) – Les Eres (third threshing floor) – Carrer del Calvari – Carrer Major – Carrer de l’Abadia (Old church – Graveyard – Abbey – Cal Macià) – Carrer Nou (cross on the wall) – Era del Rector.
Description of the route
This town is located on top of the hill that occupies the central part of the valley. The placement on uneven terrain explains the level drop between the houses on the higher and lower parts of the town, which determines the arrangement of the streets. This arrangement is very complex, as is usual with towns that have been built using the irregularities of the terrain and adapted to the topography.
Parish church square
One of the most interesting buildings in Capafonts, this building replaced the old Romanesque church, which was located next to the Old Cemetery. The church is built in neoclassic style, with a Latin cross ground plan, three naves and a dome. The façade is the most remarkable element in the temple; the angles, the rose window and the central vaulted niche are from blocks of stone, while the rest is masonry. On the central niche there is an image of the Virgin, which was pulled off in the 1930s, until it was returned to its place. The high altar is dedicated to the Assumption of the Virgin, with a fresco by Laureà Català, which occupies the whole wall of the apse. The church has eight altars: Sant Roc and the Christ Child that comes from the Old Church; the Virgin of the Roses; our Lady of Sorrow; the Sacred Heart; the Immaculate Conception; Saint Christ; and the Virgin of Barrulles, that comes from the shrine and is one of the artistic jewels of the church (polychrome alabaster, XV century). Nowadays there are also the altars of Saint Abdón and Saint Senén, built in 1984 in the place where the Lady of Sorrow was in the old days. During the Civil War the church suffered a lot of damage.
The bells
These must be treated as a separate element, both for its historical importance and its meaning for the people of Capafonts. There are three bells, all of them with inscriptions; the biggest weighs 250 kilos, has an inner inscription that takes up almost all the external surface and is the one that gives the time. The middle one weighs 180 kilos; it also has inscriptions with a dedication to Saint Marc and Saint Barbara, to the writer Francisco Badrinas and the year. The smallest one weighs 110 kilos. The bells have been a crucial element in the life of the people of Capafonts since, besides its basic function of calling people to mass, they also regulated the hours for the farmers. In the old times, when there were not a lot of watches, the bells announced lunch time for the farmers or the time to start working again. Thus, bells at Capafonts are considered something very precious and are very closely related to life in the town. They have also been defended from strangers, as during the Civil War, when outsiders wanted to take them down and have them melt to build weaponry. They were never moved.
La Ninota
This is the name given to a 40 meter-high rock, separated from the group of which is part and that takes the shape of a column that widens at the top. It is now on a separation phase, before its fall. It seems that some decades ago it was possible to jump on top of the rock from the rest of the group, because of the small gap. It is one of the symbols of Capafonts.
El Picoarandan
It is located on the hill of Serra Plana, which is the end of the Motllats. It is an appendix of sorts that juts out and looks over the Capafonts valley. There are many opinions about the origin of this name. According to Coromines, it comes from Arabic and means Swallow’s Beak. It is another symbol of the town.
Les eres
Cereals were for many years one of the traditional crops of the now abandoned town. The importance of the crops, especially wheat, can be seen from the many threshing floors that existed. The biggest number is located at the highest part of the town known as Les Eres, since it had five of them. This was because at that particular spot the winds were more frequent and strong, a crucial element for the threshing of the wheat: the operation through which the grains are separated from the chaff. There are many more throughout the town, often named after the owners, and almost all of them have retaining walls, since they were built on uneven topography, and these helped creating a level surface which was then tiled.
The Old Graveyard and the Old Church.
The Old Graveyard was located behind the Abbey and was preserved until 1975, when it was paved and transformed into a playground. Next to the Garveyard was the Old Church, one of whose walls, about 5 meters in height, must have been the same width of the church. The entrance was probably facing north, on the opposite side. The Abbey, the Old Graveyard, the Old Church and the Era del Rector are all in a straight line.
Cal Macià
The only house with a historical façade in the town, it dates from medieval times and is located in the Carrer de l’Abadia. This house must have been the centre of political power of the town, because of its location. The façade is very interesting, built with well-crafted masonry and with quarry marks, of the same type as the ones in the masonry of the Font Vella and that were placed on the stairs of the church when the font was taken apart. It is also of notice the coat of arms over the gate of keystones, with an inscription and has a dove as heraldic figure. This created a legend, according to which Christopher Columbus (dove means Columba in Latin) was born in this house. Inside the house there are the usual rooms: a wine cellar with a winepress, a small stable on one side and a bigger one at the opposite side, a kitchen, a lounge, a poultry yard, etc. It is very probable that this house was the residence of the Count of Prades in Capafont. This hypothesis is supported by a document from 1282 where one Pere de Capafonts is mentioned, which must have been a feudal of the Count and thus must have lived at the only historical house owned by him.
The bakery
This is one of the most important elements, both because of its antiquity and its meaning for the life in the town. It is a highly important anthropologic document, which allows us a glimpse inside a medieval bakery, restored in 800 AD. It is located two meters under street level, below the Casa de la Vila. The oven is 4 meter in diameter and still shows the patina that has been built over the centuries. In the first level there is a kneading machine, a model from the XIX century and that was working until the bakery ceased its economic activity in 1985. It has 2 motors, one electric and one that works on gasoline, the only type that existed before the arrival of electricity in the town. The latter is an old model, from the time when the kneading machine was installed, and has a big ceramic jar that contained the cooling water for the motor, and a pipe for the exhaust gases. The bottom level contains the kneading trough, the boxes where the bread was placed to ferment before baking, the ashes deposit and the copper oven. The shovels and tools used by the bakers are also kept here. The oven is medieval. In 1885, as a consequence of the Disentailment Law of Madoz, it was given to the Estate together with the rest of Capafonts assets. In the old times, the oven space was let to rent, since in most houses there were no ovens and the bread was baked there in tradictional style, which gave fame to the bread from Capafonts.
El “Porxo”
In the Porxo, or Small Square of the Grèvol, there used to be a porch that gave its name to the square that concentrates most of the town’s activities. On one of its sides there is the Casa de la Vila, the social club, the ball room, the Retiree's Social Club and the public library.
The Cross on the wall of the Old Church
This is a cross carved on a stone of the Old Cemetery wall and can be seen from the Carrer Nou (next to the Tourist Office). The model and style, in relief, means that this could be a Cathar cross, which would show the presence of Cathar strongholds in the mountains of Prades. There are records of similar crosses in other cemeteries and towns.
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